Here is a rough sketch of our plans: after landing in Dubrovnik we drove about 20 minutes south, crossed the border into Montenegro, then another 20 minutes to our first destination, Herceg Novi, where we stayed just Sunday night. From Herceg Novi we drove down to Petrovac na Moru, where we stayed Monday through Friday. We then drove to Perast for the rest of the trip. On Friday, August 25, we returned to Dubrovnik, caught a flight to Munich, enjoyed an extended layover in the village of Freising, Germany, and flew back to Newark on Saturday, August 26th.
After much planning, organizing and packing, we are on our way to Montenegro. We are thrilled to have gotten a good deal on a non-stop flight from Newark to Dubrovnik and are now just hoping the flight will be on-time and smooth and that we will be picking up our rental car and hitting the road before we know it. One can hope, right?
What are we most looking forward to? We are definitely excited to swim in the beautiful, clear water, visit historical and natural sites and soak in the relaxed seaside atmosphere, but more importantly for our family is to be spending time together in a place that holds special meaning — where Veselin spent many summers of his youth, and where we can immerse Luka (and me) into the Serbian and Montenegrin language and culture (and food!). This trip has been a long time coming and we are glad it’s finally here.
Day 1 — Herceg Novi
Hit the Road
After a smooth flight, we landed in Dubrovnik almost an hour early and feeling good. The airport is small and easy to make your way through and after about a twenty minute wait to get through passport control, we headed out to the car rental area in the lot directly outside.
First impression: it’s hot. It was only about 85 but the sun felt strong. The humidity is low and it feels great — or at least we know it will feel great once we get rid of our plane attire and get into shorts.
We got in the car and headed out for our drive to Herceg Novi. The car rental guy suggested we take the smaller, more out-of-the-way border crossing at Vitaljina. Not sure if this was a good call — the line was not that long, maybe 25 cars or so, but it took an hour to get through. On the bright side, it was definitely the most scenic border crossing we’ve been to in a long time, if not ever. The views of the sea were beautiful.
Arriving at Hotel Kredo
After we got over the border, the ride to Herceg Novi was smooth and quick. We got to our hotel by 1:15 and though check-in was at 2:00, they gave us our room early. The staff were so warm, friendly and helpful, especially the woman at the front desk.
We were happy to get changed into our bathing suits and into the pool. The pool overlooked the marina and was great for Luka and for cooling off, but way too shallow for any serious swimming. But after the long flight, it felt great to be in the water.
Heading Out
After our swim, we headed out to see the beaches and the bay. Our hotel sat at the beginning of the pedestrian walkway, Pet Danica, that runs for many kilometers along the coastline. There’s nothing like walking by the water.
We had thought about walking the twenty minutes into the old town of Herceg Novi but we quickly realized that we were beyond hungry and needed to eat. Now. It was about four o’clock — call it a late lunch or early dinner — so we went to the restaurant at Hotel Perla, the sister hotel of the one where we were staying. The water view, the breezy atmosphere and excellent food were just what we needed. Luka had čevapi and Veselin and I split a large šopška salata (tomato, cucumber, red pepper and feta) and a grilled meat plate. The food was delicious and the portions were beyond enormous. Luka got very sleepy and curled up on my lap and slept.
Swim in the Bay
We rallied with an ice cream and went for a quick swim in the bay. It was so beautiful that we wanted to stay longer but the sun was setting and we knew we needed to call it a day. Half asleep at this point, we walked back to our hotel at about 7:30pm. I think Veselin was asleep by the time we walked into our hotel room. Luka and I were not far behind. All in all, a great start.
Day 2 — To Petrovac
Rise and Shine
We woke up Monday morning a bit late, around 9:15. Luka had slept through the night, but Veselin and I had both spent a couple of jet-lagged hours awake in the middle of the night. Overall though, once we got up, we all felt much more awake than the previous day and made our way to breakfast.
A Good Start
And what a breakfast it was. This was no chain-hotel breakfast buffet with industrial-grade muffins. All the pastries, breads, and cakes were freshly baked and definitely either homemade or made by a local bakery. Platters of pršut and hard cheeses, little bowls with kajmak and other soft cheeses, olives, ajvar, hard boiled eggs, scrambled eggs, pita with cheese, and more. Bowls of fresh fruits and sliced watermelon, pancakes and waffles. Everything was presented so well and the variety was seriously impressive, especially for what is a relatively small, ten-room hotel.
The hotel had an outdoor patio so we sat there, and though we’re still adjusting to it being that hot and bright in the morning, it was a great way to start the day. But today was another travel day so we needed to pack up, say goodbye to Hotel Kredo, and head out to Petrovac na Moru.
Taking a Moment — Savina Monastery
After we checked out of the hotel, we visited the Savina Monastery, a Serbian Orthodox monastery just up the road from our hotel. What a beautiful spot.
The site is comprised of three churches: the small Church of the Assumption, the Great Church of the Assumption, and the Church of St. Sava (which, according to legend, was built by the saint himself). There are also monastery quarters and two cemeteries. The foundation of the oldest church dates back to the 11th century but the buildings we see today were built mostly from the late 17th to the late 18th century.
The grounds were beautiful and immaculate with several grand old trees and stunning views. The overall feeling of the place evoked a sense of peace and reflection. The interior of the church was simple and modest. Sunlight beamed through the arched iron windows creating textured spotlights on the floor — an effect I always appreciate.
Veselin shared some customs with me, such as always exiting the church facing the altar rather than with your back to the inside. We made a small donation, got a few candles, and lit them — a few for the dead and a few for the living. My tender heart was feeling saturated, and we moved on.
On the Road
Heading out, we made a couple of quick stops to pick up some burek for the road (1 Euro each) and a SIM card. We all loved the fact that we happened to park right outside a pharmacy called Apoteka Veselin.
We then drove down toward the Kamenari ferry that takes passengers and their cars across the bay — a quick ride that cuts the hour-plus scenic route around the bay to a mere five minutes. The entrance came up on us fast and there was some unexpected mayhem of hopping out of the car to buy tickets, but nothing a few seasoned New Yorkers can’t handle. We were the last car on and before we knew it, it was over. Dare I say, it was too fast? The views were so beautiful that we all wished the trip was longer.
New Location, New Friends
The drive to Petrovac was fairly uneventful. Luka wasn’t feeling so great so we ate our burek and listened to a bit of the Mysterious Benedict Society audiobook as we made our way south through Tivat, Budva and Sveti Stefan (stunning) and before we knew it, we were in Petrovac at a little after 4:00pm.
Our host’s brother met us by the parking area and was helpful, relaxed and friendly in getting us checked in to our apartment. After a snack and some time on the terrace, we put on our suits and headed to Lučice Beach, a five minute walk from our place. It was around that time that we met our first new friend — a cat dozing in the shade outside our terrace, then another one on the walk to the beach, then more at the beach and by the restaurant. I had read about the cats in Montenegro. They are everywhere, and they are so cute and so sweet.
Closing Out the Day
The beach was still pretty packed when we arrived at 6:30pm. Luka and I went for a swim — the water was cool and with little sun left to warm us up, we made it a quick one. We headed to Restaurant Medin where we had another excellent meal: pizza from the wood-burning oven for Luka, šopsky salat and a plate of grilled meats for Veselin and me. We stopped at the playground on the way back and then headed home and called it a day.
Day 3 — Petrovac na Moru
Fruit en Route to Fruit
From our research we knew that there was a farmer’s market (zelena pijaca) in town so in the early afternoon we headed there. Though it was only a 15-minute walk from our place, in that short walk we passed so many fruit trees along the way: pomegranate, fig, grapes, olives, oranges, limes and even kiwi.
Farmers Market
The farmers market did not disappoint. It was fairly small with only about ten stands, most of which had similar offerings, but the fruit and vegetables all looked and smelled amazing. We decided on half a huge watermelon, a cantaloupe, black grapes, figs (both purple and green), apricots and a few large bright red tomatoes — all for about 12 Euro. All of it has been excellent, but the watermelon and the cantaloupe (from Donji Štoj) are the most delicious we’ve ever had.
Afternoon Rain
We stopped at the grocery store to pick up more coffee, water, and some other essentials and then headed back before going to the beach. The weather however quickly turned — a bunch of dark clouds rolled in and within a few minutes it started to pour. So we got our books and relaxed in the apartment for the rest of the afternoon.
Evening on the Promenade
After the rain we headed to the main hub of Petrovac, the promenade that runs along the beach and is lined with shops and restaurants. It’s a pretty cove and beach but there were a lot of people here — we are in a tourist destination in the height of tourist season, after all.
After dinner, we walked up to the top of Kastio Castle, a small fortress-like structure on top of a rocky cliff. It was dark by that time but Veselin got a couple of nice shots of the view from the top. On the way back down the promenade, Luka found some arcade games and had a ball, and we capped off the evening with a perfectly spun, three-tiered cotton candy.
Day 4 — Lučice Beach
Beach Day
We had a delicious breakfast, hung out for a bit in our apartment, and then headed to Lučice Beach. It’s really pretty crowded this time of year, but the scene is very relaxed and friendly. Everyone is just having a good time, being mindful of others’ space (however small it may be). There’s no amplified music — which is fantastic — or any other sort of loud nonsense.
Veselin has been asking all our hosts and waiters how the season has been and they have all said the same thing: it was really quiet and slow at the beginning of the summer and only got busy in the last couple of weeks. Next trip, we think we’ll come in June when the crowds are nowhere near as thick.
Birthday Lunch-Dinner
We decided to have a late lunch / early dinner at Restaurant Medin. This day was my birthday. It was a good day.
Day 5 — Stari Bar
Day Trip
Today we visited Stari Bar, a historic ruin of a city located about an hour’s drive south from Petrovac. It was interesting. It was hot.
Starobarski Čaršija
Wanting a small snack, we walked down Starobarski čaršija, the road that runs alongside the site and is lined with shops, restaurants and cafes. We landed in a place called Kaldrma. This road and these restaurants carry a particular unhurried atmosphere that felt distinctly local.
Walking around Stari Bar was interesting, but the day was a hot one so we took everything slow and easy. 86 degrees doesn’t sound particularly hot but the sun was blaring. After a couple of hours, we were all a bit melty and decided to call it a day.
Day 6 — Režići Beach
Morning Shopping
This morning I went out early to buy some breakfast goodies. I stopped by the farmers market first to get a few more figs, then went to Pekara Venera and got a ham and cheese croissant, a poppyseed strudel, a blueberry strudel cake, and two krofne (chocolate-filled donuts). Everything was delicious. Luka said the krofne were fluffy and sweet and delicious and wanted to go back to get ten of them.
Morning Swim
After breakfast, we spent a while in the pool. Since our next place won’t have a pool, we wanted to splash around in there one last time before leaving.
Režiči Beach
In the late afternoon we drove about ten minutes north to Režiči Beach. Once you turn off the main road to head down to the beach — I’ll just say the drive is not for the faint of heart. Incredibly steep, windy, and narrow, with not enough room for two cars to pass. I was happy and relieved when we arrived at the bottom.
The beach here is nice, but very rocky with a steep drop at the shoreline that made the waves bigger and the undercurrent stronger than at Lučice Beach. Your feet and legs get a bit beat up from the stones. It was fun though — Luka loved playing in the waves and building with the big, smooth stones. There is also a huge, abandoned building project at the beach, what was going to be a large hotel that now stands empty, which makes for a slightly odd scene.
Day 7 — Sveti Stefan & Perast
Checking Out
This morning we had a quick breakfast, cleaned and packed, and checked out of our place at 9am. All in all it was a great stay — spacious, clean, new apartment, highly responsive hosts, great location, convenient to beaches, shops and restaurants. I’d definitely stay there again.
Sveti Stefan
Sveti Stefan was high on our list of places we wanted to visit, so after leaving Petrovac, we headed straight there. Getting there early was ideal — there is one parking lot at the base of the road that leads into town and when we arrived at around 9:30, there were still a few spots available.
It definitely has a more exclusive feel, with its one parking lot, more high-end hotels on the beach, and fewer shops and everyday amenities. We got coffee and iced tea at the hotel restaurant on the beach. The coffee could have been stronger, but it was a beautiful place to start the day.
There was a bizarre downpour while we were having our coffee. The sky was bright blue, not a cloud to be seen, the sun was shining — and yet, for about five minutes, rain poured from the sky. I’ve never seen anything like it.
We changed into our suits and took turns going in the water. Veselin put the phone in a waterproof case and got some great shots of Sveti Stefan from the water. When we got out, we bought krofne from one of the ladies walking up and down the beach selling them — just as Tetka had advised us to do.
On to Perast
Before noon, we headed out to Perast, our next apartment rental for the remainder of our stay in Montenegro. We arrived around 3pm and after a bit of trouble parking, a hefty walk down a lot of stairs, and some back and forth with the apartment rental people, we got settled in and went to have a late lunch.
First impressions: stunning.
Day 8 — Enjoying Perast
A Day of Rest
Even though yesterday was a fairly short travel day, with the stress of traffic, the harried parking experience, carrying our bags down the formidable staircase and the unexpected wait for our host, this morning we decided that all we wanted to do was chill, explore, and swim in the bay.
We had lunch at Locanda, right on the water. Food and service, pretty good. View, perfect.
Swim
In Perast, and in much of Montenegro, many of the access points to the water are not beaches but cement landings or platforms. They are public and open, and often the best places to enter to swim. Bring a towel or a mat or a chair if the hard floor is too rough for you, and plop it down and there you are. We checked out a couple of spots and then landed on the one that would be our favorite for the rest of the week — smooth entry with shallow water at the steps and a gradual incline to the deep.
Perfect temperature, gorgeous color. Stunningly beautiful here. People are relaxed and very family oriented. Oh, and there are lots of kitty friends here, too.
Day 9 — Perast and Kotor
Morning Swim
Can we just take a moment to appreciate the color of the water? In the morning we headed down to our spot and all got in. Luka loved exploring the marine life and especially trying to catch the small, speedy fish in his hands. There are schools with hundreds — maybe thousands — of tiny fish.
Lunch at Cafe Šijavoga
We had a late breakfast / early lunch at Cafe Šijavoga — omelettes and pljeskavici (a sort of burger). A word unfamiliar to all of us, including Veselin: we learned that šijavoga is the process for reverse-turning a rowboat around. Luka had discovered their pomegranate juice the night before, so we made a point of coming back. Not thick and tart like the Pom brand you can get in the States — this was more like a pomegranate cooler, juice cut with a little water, not overly sweet at all, just super refreshing.
Trip to Kotor
The historic town of Kotor was on our list, so in the afternoon we drove the short 15-minute drive down around the bay. The magnitude and steepness of the mountains and the way the road just hugs the base of them made for a truly awesome ride.
Historic City of Kotor
Since this was mid-August — the height of the season — traffic in Kotor was pretty thick. We ended up at a parking area (0.60€/hr) that was a short walk to the southernmost gate, Gurdić Gate.
First impression: stunning, well-preserved, historic city. However, it’s hard not to notice the massive cruise ship docked in port and looming over the city and the thousands of passengers making their way through town.
With a Masters in urban design and development, a focus on cultural heritage planning, and experience living in a UNESCO world heritage site, I am always particularly interested in the extent to which a town like this is still a functioning place and not simply a museumified commodity for tourist consumption. Initial impressions left me wondering how many people actually live here, as I saw little in the way of local life — primarily souvenir shops and restaurants.
After dinner, ice cream, a bit of shopping, and more exploring, we decided to call it a day. From outside the city walls, you can see the trail that runs all the way up the mountain — knowing that is a thing many visitors do, and seeing the trail weave up that steep rock face, was incredible. But it was already after 3pm when we arrived and between the late hour, the heat and our interest in the town, we decided we’d have to do the hike another time.
Heading Back to Perast
We picked up some groceries at the Idea right in town and headed back to Perast. We were lucky to find a free parking spot on the road above town and squeezed our Renault between a couple of rocks. Walking along the side of the road in the dark was a stress trigger, but we hustled along with my phone flashlight and headed back down the stairs to our place. A good day.
Days 10–13 — Final Days in Perast
The last few days in Perast blurred together in the best possible way — the rhythm of morning swims, lunches on the water, long afternoons at our spot on the cement landing, and quiet evenings in a town that seemed entirely unbothered by the passage of time. The kind of days that are hard to describe and easy to miss once they’re gone.
